The starting point was cult classic, Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s sailor movie “Querelle de Brest.” “Not the muscles, but rather the fragility of the sailors when together,” the designer said backstage.
The cute navy and red sailor knits were the obvious till ringers. But the designer in his delivery — a super clean Nineties allure with tailored proportions — also succeeded in softening the nuances and subculture references, and make it more approachable in a young, non-threatening way, without losing impact.
That included a great black leather shirt cut with a larger collar to make it feel casual and less costume-y.
The collection combined new technology with classic fabrics, going from a vinyl-like coated poplin used on jackets and pants to a coat cut from black radzimir. It lent a hint of eroticism and mystery to the collection, much like the great closing parka presented fully unzipped and off the shoulder, like an evening gown, only worn over a crisp white shirt and tie.
