To mark the 10th anniversary of his brand, Juun.J preferred to use pieces past collections as the point of departure — remixing and updating archive finds instead of starting from scratch. The result was a lineup of clothes for urban combat that drove home the house’s military-infused vocabulary and the designer’s penchant for playing with proportions.
The cast of models was split evenly between the sexes in the presentation during Paris Men’s Week, with looks ranging from androgynous to ones that more clearly targeted men or women. In a season when patchwork and plaids have dominated runways, Juun.J’s collection was almost completely restricted to solids in the designer’s trademark palette of khakis, olive, black and white.
The designer leaned into his preference for super-long sleeves this season, with barely a hand in sight. Large flap pockets hanging from belts provided a sort-of human saddlebag on both hips. An oversize parka was cinched at the waist, while the parachute fabric used on trenchcoats was light enough to float behind the body. Cargo flare pants in black velvet and giant cable-knit turtlenecks that reached from the back of the head past the knees brought both texture and extreme proportions. Myriad straps rained from oversize rucksacks, while black leather baseball caps represented a more reserved accessory.